Resilience In Denim

Denim North America's everFLEX dual core technology offers improved recovery and strength for stretch jeans and denim leggings while retaining the comfort of cotton next to the skin.

Janet Bealer Rodie, Managing Editor

Denim North America has been weaving mid- to high-range ring-spun denim fabric at its $87 million state-of-the-art plant in Columbus, Ga., since 2002, when a group of private investors acquired the business, including the plant, from Marubeni Group, Tokyo. As one of only a few denim manufacturers producing fabric in the United States, the company has remained profitable and seen solid growth from the start, and supplies its fabric to many of the leading brands that market and sell jeans and other denim apparel.

Keeping up with trends toward body-hugging yet comfortable fashion apparel, Denim North America weaves stretch denim in addition to conventional denim fabric. Its newest stretch denim collection, everFLEX, features a cotton warp and an innovative dual core technology in the filling yarn, which comprises spandex and polyester plied together as a core that is wrapped with cotton. According to Linsey Hinkle, director, merchandising & development, everFLEX offers significantly improved recovery -— greater than 15 percent — and strength — 75-percent better tensile strength and 40-percent better tear strength — over conventional corespun technology; and, in warm weather, a cotton-wrapped corespun yarn is more comfortable than a polyester-wrapped yarn. The technology has relevance not only for tight jeans, but also for the denim leggings that lately have become popular. 

"The legging trend really created a need for better recovery and stretch," Hinkle said, noting that super-stretch fabrics in tight clothing can become baggy after a couple of hours. "A lot of mills, including ours, were combating that by using a poly/spandex yarn in the filling, which provides excellent recovery and works well for that type of silhouette, but in summer, if you're wearing polyester next to the skin, it can get a little hot and is just not comfortable. We worked with one of our spinning partners in Mexico and developed technology using polyester and spandex, but corespun inside cotton. So, cotton is next to the skin, but polyester helps with the recovery, and the jeans stay tight and keep their fit." She added that for the relatively lighter-weight stretch fabrics used in some legging jeans, the added strength provided by polyester helps those fabrics withstand harsh wash treatments often used to give them a worn or distressed look.

The everFLEX collection presently includes four styles, with percentages of cotton/polyester/spandex ranging from 85/14/1 to 80/17/3, and in three shades of blue. The stretchier styles are targeted for leggings, and the less stretchy, for jeans. "Even regular stretch jeans have not been recovering as fully as they could, so even there, everFLEX makes a big difference," Hinkle said.

Denim North America customers are sampling the fabrics and anticipate a Fall 2012 rollout of new products at retail.

DENIM IS AMERICA

By Alee Morrison

Denim North America, a Columbus based company, is the manufacturer of the most versatile and practical fabric, beloved in its time by soldiers, railway workers, and, of course, since the mid- 1950s, by any fashion follower worth his or her credentials.

The denim industry feels a close relationship with the American Bison because they hold similar histories of near extinction. The dilemma of the possible loss of this grand animal has much to do with few people having a responsive vision to save the bison in North America. Many of the highways that are now consumed with oversized luxury SUV’s used to be roaming trails for bison, who were in fact our country’s original pioneers.

Thankfully, the message has been spread and once again these sizable animals are part of our landscape. The American textile industry fought a similar battle and has since fought to keep the stamp on our denim: Made in the USA.

Go take a look in your closet now. You probably have at least 7 pairs of jeans. Have you ever considered where the material was made? Did you ever think it could’ve been made in your own hometown? Most likely, it was. Columbus, Georgia is home to one of the United States’ last denim plants: Denim North America.

Like the story of the Bison, the current ownership at DNA had revival on the mind. In 2002 the facility formerly known as Marubeni Denim, began revitalization in hope of keeping the denim industry alive in the USA. They strive to lead the "blue jean way" in terms of all your fashion needs. This facility was custom designed for tomorrow’s product and service needs. SVM recently spent time with president, Monte Galbraith, in the actual factory filled with 365 employees and miles of yarn and fabric to experience all that goes into the production of denim manufacturing.

Although I felt like I was literally standing on the equator on the hottest day of the year, it was well worth the sweat and overbearingly loud noises to learn all that goes into the pair of jeans that I was wearing on that day.

How did your fascination with denim heritage come about?

I have always been interested in history and when you look back at the impact denim has made on the American image over the last 100 years, it is amazing. No other single fabric defines North America like denim and it continues to evolve and stay importantly significant year after year. It is the quintessential American fabric.

Why do you think blue jeans have withheld the stamp of time?

Flexibility… they can be dressed down or dressed up. If worn properly, they’re always in style.

What sets DNA apart from other denim manufacturers?

We are extremely dedicated and committed to product innovation, as we are constantly investing time and resources with strategic brands. We are also obsessively focused when it comes to cost control, which is an essential aspect of this business.

Your company strives to bring the latest technology and fashion guidance to their clientele. Who buys and wears your fabrics?

Although our headquarters are in Columbus, we have sales offices in San Francisco, Los Angeles, New York City, and Mexico City, which means we are able to reach a large customer base, dealing with the top names in the world of denim. A few of the specific brands we sell to are: Seven, True Religion, AG, Polo, Banana Republic, Guess, Lucky Brand Jeans, Hollister, Abercrombie & Fitch, GAP, and American Eagle Outfitters, along with many others. Therefore, it is safe to say that most denim wearers in the United States have most likely worn our fabric once in their lives- if not every day!

The trend in clothing is now leaning toward the "greener" side of things. How is DNA doing their part to help protect our environment?

We have a line of fabrics called "Respect," which utilizes components such as organic cotton and recycled denim as well as yarns using fibers manufactured from recycled plastic water bottles. We also feel as though the production process is very important in our effort to be a part of the "green movement." We always monitor our energy and water use, making sure state and federal environmental standards are met.

What are the benefits and primary reasons for manufacturing in Columbus?

First and foremost, we have an outstanding work force. This entire area has been a training ground for many generations of textile craftsmen. We are blessed with some of the most talented, dedicated and professional team members one could ask for. Secondly, Columbus is in close proximity to the tree main shipping ports that most of our products ship out from: Miami, Savannah, and New Orleans.

Last but not least, this is a community that has a long history of supporting and encouraging manufacturing; so we have put our stake in the ground here and have said that Columbus is where we want to be. It makes us proud to point out to the industry that DNA fabric is Made in the USA.

What is the difference between how jeans are made today as opposed to 20 years ago?

Without question, wet processing. The processing of denim is a continuous evolution of washes. Also in the last several years stretch denim has made a huge impact on women’s jeans. In fact, stretch denim is what we specialize in, as it drives about 65%-70% of our business.

You often give tours and host fashion students in the factory. Describe their reactions to the vast machinery and the level of extreme technical detail.

It is one of the most amusing aspects of the job- working with leading universities and hosting fashion students. They are always blown away by the enormity of the machines, the complexity of the process and the attention to detail it takes to manufacture a fabric they think they now something about simply because they have been wearing it all their lives. It is also a very import part of out job because we get exposed to truly bright students, which gives us a chance to develop a relationship with them early in their careers. We have top-of-the-line designers come to work with us at our development center, but nothing is more fun than seeing a group of bright-eyed college kids experiencing a major manufacturing facility for the first time.

What can we expect to see in Columbus in the upcoming season?

More skinny and slim-cut jeans in dark washes for this season… stretch denim is here to stay. Also, within the next few seasons, you will notice higher waistbands and more flared legs. There will definitely be a 1970’s vibe swinging through the market.

Keeping Pace With Denim Demand and Design

Denim North America looks to the future with a nod to denim’s roots.

by Alison A. Nieder

A call to Denim North America’s headquarters in Columbus, Ga., yields an automated voicemail system that quickly dispenses with the usual departments—shipping, customer service and accounts payable—and heads right to the technical directory: weave room, finishing and picks, beaming, warping and dyeing, and product and market development.

The company has operated largely under the radar since opening in 2002 on the grounds of a former Marubeni factory. But now, as one of the two remaining denim mills in the United States, Denim North America (DNA) is raising its visibility a bit. In early March, the company exhibited at its first trade show, the Kingpins boutique denim sourcing show in Los Angeles. DNA has operated a Los Angeles office since the company was founded, and the company was already familiar with many of the attendees at Kingpins. Still, results were encouraging, and the company plans to attend the next Kingpins show, set for July in New York.

DNA—which also operates offices in New York, San Francisco and Mexico City—was founded in the wake of the economic downturn of 2001, at a time when many U.S. textile companies were closing shop or looking abroad for new business opportunities. DNA’s ability to survive—and thrive—during that downturn bodes well for the company’s success in navigating the current crisis. DNA President Monte Galbraith, an affable man with a fondness for textile puns, conceded that the current economy bears little resemblance to the 2001–2002 slowdown. Still, the company’s founding years helped shape the strategy for the current economic climate. DNA saw the indications of a slowdown and began preparing in advance, trimming inventory and developing new products.

“We come from that mindset of what doesn’t kill you makes you stronger,” Galbraith said.

California Apparel News Executive Editor Alison A. Nieder recently caught up with Galbraith to discuss the company, its plans for the future and how California fits into its goals. 

How does California fit into Denim North America’s business strategy?

You can hardly say “denim” without saying “California.” The terms are—if you pardon the pun—interwoven.

Our L.A. office is the nerve center to keep us posted on what’s happening in the industry.

California has always been an important part of our plan simply because so many important denim brands—large, small and emerging—originated there. California has a very high level of denim sensibility. Denim jeans started in California, and many of the very best ideas for denim innovation still originate in California. Frankly, when most of the world thinks of California, they think of cool blue jeans, great cars and pretty girls. It doesn’t get much better than that. California and denim go hand in hand.

I still say the best ideas come out of California. [All the designers] do their annual [buying trips]—what I call the “globe trot.” They’ll tell me the best stuff they find is in L.A.

With several notable exceptions—such as Levi’s, Guess, Gap and Seven For All Mankind—many West Coast denim makers are small- to mid-sized companies. Is DNA able to cater to the smaller players as well as the large companies?

In our business plan, we plan to do 20 million to 21 million yards per year. That’s a lot of denim. You’ve got to deal with the larger people, but we have a flexible manufacturing facility and we try to find a way to work with companies. We try as best we can to support smaller brands because we have a soft spot for growing and innovative companies that are paddling hard against the current.

However, we cannot be all things to all people, and we have to make tough choices and turn down orders that do not make good business sense in either the long- or short-term view. That said, we are always listening and watching for the next great trend and idea, so we try to stay in contact with as many new designers as possible. You never know when one might hit on a great new idea.

The company was founded during an economic downturn. How does the current economic climate compare, and how is the company positioning itself to succeed?

Denim North America was founded in May of 2002, so we have been building our business now for seven years.

We learned a lot of things that will help us weather this storm. We can be very aggressive on the one hand and very conservative on inventory management. Inventory has always been the key. You’ve got to watch every penny. Inventory is cash. I always say we’re really in the cash-management business—we just happen to make textiles.

We probably have the best cost-control systems in the industry as well as an incredibly well-engineered and flexible manufacturing setup. Our focus is on product innovation and customer intimacy. We spend a lot of time with strategic accounts, developing customized products that fit their objectives for each new season as well as independently developing ideas gleaned from emerging trends. This is an ongoing process. Innovation, cost control, manufacturing excellence and customer intimacy make up the cornerstones of our business.

There are some who believe we’ve seen the end of the premium-denim boom—and others who are banking on resurgence, possibly at a lower price point. Where do you see the denim market heading?

I don’t know if anyone really has an answer to that.

I think there is a sag in ultra-premium-denim expectations. In this environment, who isn’t thinking about what they need vs. what they want? That said, I truly believe that a new pair of great-looking and great-fitting blue jeans is the one garment that is so universally loved that great jeans will always sell even though “premium” might be at a somewhat lower price point than in the last few years. Lets face it, $300 to $400 jeans did not make much sense when times were “good.” They really don’t make sense now that times are tough.

However, there will be continued demand for premium/better jeans when the economy does start to pick back up. I think a great pair of new “premium” jeans will be on a lot of people’s radar screen this year—and many more to come.

I really believe that for great jeans—let’s say [retail priced between] $90 to the high $100s—there will always be a demand. I think people are re-evaluating what they’re spending. You can focus on better blue jeans—it’s still premium, just not uber-premium. Keep the focus on fit and finish. You can spend $5 to $6 on fabric and be very successful.

If there’s one piece of clothing you can buy and be emotionally attached to, it’s blue jeans.

Tell me about the Heritage Collection.

Denim is an iconic fabric, and Heritage was a nod to the past, a nod to the kind of fabrics worn by the miners and sailors 100 years ago. There is not another garment more associated with the United States than blue jeans.

Other countries have picked up on denim over the years and have developed their own versions. Over the years, there has developed a myth that only denim from overseas has better quality. The fact of the matter is that fabric from overseas is only more expensive. They have done a great job marketing their products, and my hat is off to them.

Heritage was a marketing tool to remind people where it came from, how it’s woven into our lives, if you will. 

For information about DNA, call Daryl Mead, senior account manager in the Los Angeles office, or visit www.denimna.com.

http://www.apparelnews.net/features/profiles_qa/Keeping-Pace-With-Denim-Demand-and-Design

Denim North America Debuts Heritage Collection

Columbus, Ga.-based fabric manufacturer Denim North America has launched the Heritage Collection, a line of denim that is reminiscent of the denim worn by American miners, sailors, ranchers and craftsmen in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, when pure indigo was rope-dyed onto ring-spun yarn. The new line is being manufactured in Columbus.

Denim North America is celebrating the launch by distributing limited edition, handcrafted, leather-bound wooden boxes containing fabric cuttings and a scroll timeline marking significant dates in denim’s origins and development.

http://www.textileworld.com/Articles/2008/November_2008/News/Denim_North_America_Debuts_Heritage_Collection.html

Jeans Therapy

How Georgia-based DNA came up with a miraculous cure for the ailing denim business

BY HOPE WINSBOROUGH

COLUMBUS, GA — While most of the American denim market is singin’ the blues, three-year-old Denim North America produces between 85,000 and 100,000 yards a day – about 24 million yards annually – for jeans brands such as Levi Strauss, Gap, Lee, Wrangler, Abercrombie & Fitch, Michael Kors and Marc Jacobs.

And business is getting better all the time.

Focusing on the needs of the profitable upper tier of the jeans market, DNA’s creative and merchandising director Lisa Harris spearheaded a marketing strategy that stresses both authenticity and inspiration. (Case in point: The company’s bison logo, which she invented to play up its American legacy.)

Enlisting the help of “denim masters” Tom Butler, Paul Patterson, Andy Buchman, and Gerald McCrory (warp/beam, dye, weave and Sanforizing specialists, respectively), she developed a hands-on approach to client collaboration, dubbed the “Denim Development Café,” which involves clients in product development and –not coincidentally-highlights DNA’s high-tech capabilities and directional flexibility.

The goal is making each client a full-fledged design partner, Harris explains, and making each yard of denim as specific to its market as possible. Because today’s buy-now, wear-now marketplace means clients need concepts that can be released throughout the year, Harris works continually- along with the “masters”-to develop and redevelop new product.

In fact, everyone is involved every step of the way. The company has an active sales staff with offices in New York, San Francisco and Mexico City, and vice-president Monte Galbraith explains, “Contracts are so complicated that every member of the sales team works on deals. A decision made in New York, for example, might be mostly influenced by [people in] San Francisco."

In turn, the plant keeps the customers happy because DNA builds in elaborate quality controls at every point in manufacturing: from yarn strength to shrinkage to pre- and post-wash shading.

DNA’s state-of-the-art 260,000-square-foot plant here first opened in 1998 as Marubeni Denim & Swift Spinning, owned by Japan’s Marubeni Corp. (ranked number 12 on Fortune’s Global 500). Three years later, at the rock bottom of 2001’s economic downturn, Marubeni announced plans to shut down the $85 million operation. “At that point, this community had already assumed as much loss as it could take,” says Galbraith, who saw a silver lining in the news.

In Galbraith’s view, the hard part had already been done: The plant was up and running; its technology was unparalleled; and its (nonunion) employees were committed to keeping their jobs. If the 2001 downturn could be weathered, he felt, the U.S. denim market would bounce back.

Today, he remembers first mentioning buying out Marubeni during lunch with his father, a retired textile executive, who replied that Monte was “nuts!”

But it didn’t take long for Larry Galbraith to be worn down by his salesman son. Now president and chief executive officer, the elder Galbraith ultimately agreed and, with little time to spare, rounded up a small group of savvy backers, including director Bob Koon, a veteran of the American textile business.

While there were other competitive bids, theirs was the one favored by Marubeni, which was operating according to the Japanese management perspective that it was important to “leave the nest “in good condition.

After a relatively smooth transition period, the company has managed to exceed even its own sales projections. Profitability is enhanced by DNA’s low debt-to-equity ratio. Beyond that, says Monte Galbraith (whose brother Todd joined the firm as chief financial officer), “We’re obsessive with costs. We do everything we can to keep them down-from turning out the bathroom lights to being sure to squeeze every penny out of the process.

“Our advantages are incremental yet competitive,” he explains. He cites the company’s proximity to Central and South America as being crucial when it comes to time-sensitive fashion: “It’s true the world is shrinking, but location matters-because speed is an issue.” Orders done from scratch (requiring new dye or yarn sizes) average a turnaround of four weeks. Two weeks, if the materials are in stock.

But in terms of beating the competition, the biggest advantages are quality and service, which Galbraith sees as driven by passion for the product: “If you compete strictly on price, there’s not much of a chance. But you can be competitive based on a lot of things that customers also want.”

The way I see it, denim is a fundamentally American product that's become a worldwide phenomenon. And there's a reason for that, according to Galbraith. "The best denim is made in the U.S.," he says. "No one does any better than we do."